First Impressions of Kampala...

I knew Uganda would have a distinctive smell and it does. I had anticipated my first breath of Africa for so long, wondering what it would be like and now I know. We exited the plane late at night so there was a cool breeze to break the hot thick air. Air that smells like a mixture of wildflowers and campfires. They have so waste removal process here so all the trash is burned; something there is talk of rectifying. There are always fires burning so the odor is constant.

I have only been here for 2 ½ days so it is hard to describe all I am feeling and thinking about this fascinating place. I think Uganda has to be one of the most vivid, frenetic, colorful, fragrant (not always pleasantly so) and alive places on earth. I am taking in so many new sights; sounds and emotions that I think it will take me a few days of good sleep and processing to be able to share articulately.

I would love to share a few early impressions and observations, so here you go. My thoughts on Kampala so far…

Kampala is a flurry of activity and the traffic is insane! There is no other word for it, INSANE!! There are three traffic lights in the city and the rest of the streets are managed (and I use the term loosely) by round abouts. As in much of the developing world, the rule of the road seems to be, if there is space, move into it. The roads are full of boda bodas, which are motorcycle type things that have a cushion on the back for a passenger to ride on. They dart in and out of traffic with what can only be described as erratic and unconcerned demeanor about any vehicle (or pedestrian for that matter) in their path. I spend a lot of time in the car jumping and squealing. My husband says it is like driving with a cat in the front seat. I am terrified we are going to witness someone get killed and from what I hear it is only a matter of time.

The first morning the birds woke me. Living in Seattle you get used to traffic, sirens, boat horns and assorted other noises. I had expected it to be very quiet where we are here as it is pretty rural. I neglected to think about all the birds and insects that have something to say. It is like sleeping with one of those tropical CDs on. It is amazing how loud it is and how beautiful. Shortly after the birds woke me, I began to hear singing. It was Sunday morning and you could hear singing from the church up the road. It was so beautiful and emotional to hear all the voices in song, harmonizing with the birds. It was a nice first morning.

There is so much need here. I am so acutely aware of how blessed and pampered I am. I have spent some time the last two days at the hospital complex where my husband is based. There are people camping out all over the grounds. They are so numerous that industry has sprung up as well in the form of vendors selling snacks and the feeling is one of a little village. They come from near and far for treatment and sleep here while undergoing care. It is so humbling to see them, sleeping on dirt paths and clinic steps and know they are the lucky ones that can afford to pay for treatment. It is difficult for me to see so many people so ill. I am not accustom to it and have to learn how to handle it with grace. The sick here are much more extreme than you see at home. Often they have large growths or open wounds from lack of treatment. It is very…I am at a loss for the words.

The kids here are so darn cute!! They are so playful and scamper about all over. I am struck by how young they are when they take on responsibility here. I have seen what look like seven year olds with infants strapped to their back or slung on their hips. They walk around the crazy city streets on their own. I cannot imagine my son walking alone here and it makes me full of admiration and sadness for these kids.

Ok, that is it for now…my jetlag is catching up to me again and I am groggy. I will share more when I am better able to articulate it.